![]() This turned out a much more civilized quantity of cake with ample apples, plenty of moisture from the cream, and bits of custardy goo throughout. I also omitted the cinnamon sugar topping to leave the pretty-in-pink apples exposed and their bright flavor intact. Since the soft apples and custardy pockets were the best part of the cake, I left those measurements the same, the extra moisture compensating for the reduced sugar in the cake. So for trial 2, I cut the recipe down by a third, and baked it in a 9" pan. I got 16 pieces of cake out of it, which is way more cake than most people (even non-dieting butter-philes) generally wish to have around. The recipe called for a 10" round cake pan, an odd size, so I baked it in my 10" cast-iron skillet, and it was still so full that it trickled juices onto the oven floor. The first attempt was tasty, but still needed some tweaking. I couldn't resist cutting down the sugar a bit (it called for an awful lot, even for a non-dieting pastry chef immune to the butteriest of recipes), subbing in maple sugar, and swapping in whole spelt flour for some of the white stuff. When my friend Kelly brought me another bushel of home-grown pink pearl apples last week ( thanks, Kelly!), my thoughts returned to the super-moist apple cake, and I gave it another go. I don't recall what modifications I made beyond using soymilk instead of heavy cream, but the results were neither super nor moist. So I made some sad, diet-appropriate attempt at this cake. The cake earned its title due to the scant cup of heavy cream which got poured over the pre-baked, apple-topped batter. Of course, once I got the book home all I could think about in my carb-deprived state was the Super-Moist Apple Cake, rustic and craggy beneath a blanket of cinnamon sugar. ![]() (The book's idyllic gardening instructions also helped convince me to try my hand and growing produce, which didn't work out so well, either.) I hadn't yet come to terms with my extreme squeamishness, and had decided to try cooking proteins beyond just bean and cheese burritos. The plethora of healthy salads and simple meat and fish preparations caught my eye recipes like Asparagus with Mizuna, Blood Orange Vinaigrette, and Proscuitto Grilled Tuna with Tomatoes and Gremolata Aioli and Lemongrass Roasted Chicken. Their recipes, like those of Chez Panisse, are all timeless classics that, despite being 10 or 20 years old, always feel fresh, inspired, and original. In 1988, Top Chefs Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier moved across the country from Stars in San Francisco to open the now widely-renowned Arrows Restaurant in Maine. I was in Bookshop Santa Cruz, it was on display, and I was hungry. ![]() I picked up a copy of The Arrows Cookbook during a stint on a low-carb diet many years ago. ![]()
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